DRINK WINE in Food & Entertaining
On the rocks
The Cooley Distillery sits on the peninsula of the same name, facing the Irish Sea and the Cooley Mountains where the special water used in its whiskies originates. Barrels are carefully
conditioned so the fiery young whiskey can begin its maturation.
Single malt whiskies such as Tyrconnell are made in long-necked copper pot stills, which contribute to their characteristics. Below, filled barrels of various brands share space in the maturation cellars at Kilbeggan, where they gain complexity over the years.
Everything old is new again, so the old nugget goes. I have no idea how you say that in Gaelic, but in the case of a number of Irish whiskies, the sentiment is absolutely true.
The definition of “new” has to be a little flexible, as I’m referring to the past 20 years. But when you consider that Irish monks distilled grain for medicinal purposes more than nine centuries ago, it’s like yesterday.
We have a strange perception of Irish whiskey. Most people will tell you it’s fearsome, potent, fiery, a devil’s brew. Not so. Most whiskey — spelled “ey” unlike the Scotch “y” — has the same 40 to 43 per cent alcohol as any spirit. While it is made by essentially the same process as better-known Scotch — grain is germinated and toasted, fermented with water and yeast, distilled to concentrate alcohol, then aged in oak barrels to mellow — Irish whiskey is generally smoother and more delicate than its cousin.
The reason is that for more than 100 years, since coal heating came to dominate the process, Irish whiskies were made without the traditional peat fires for toasting. Burning peat imparted all sorts of smoke and iodine flavours and complexity to whiskey.
The Irish whiskey industry today is a relatively small one, almost entirely concentrated under one collective umbrella. But one outsider does its own thing quite successfully, thank you.
In 1987, businessman John Teeling decided to get into the world of whiskey as an independent. He bought an abandoned distillery on the tiny Cooley peninsula overlooking the Irish Sea, and quickly drew attention from investors of a like mind. Within a few years, Cooley Distillery was able to buy up and revive whiskey brands from Ireland’s near and distant past — John Locke’s, including Kilbeggan, the first licensed distillery in Ireland that had closed in the 1950s after almost 200 years; The Tyrconnell of Andrew Watt; and the famous peated whiskies of Connemara on the west coast.
Those labels and several others have resurrected the original character of Irish whiskey-making to much international acclaim. Yes, Cooley is a corporate umbrella in its own way, but the range between the brands is remarkable.
It is no coincidence that a selection of Cooley whiskies, underscoring that diversity, arrived in last weekend’s Vintages release. Everyone will be Irish on St. Patrick’s Day, even if it’s just for the evening or an excuse to down a dram or two with a hearty stew or some colcannon or nothing at all.
Here are my tasting notes on the Cooley Distillery whiskies in the Vintages selection. You may have to ask for them, but LCBO staff should be able to direct you to or get you some in time for March 17. The notes are in the order I tasted the whiskies. All bottle sizes are 700 mL unless noted otherwise.
KILBEGGAN BLENDED IRISH WHISKEY ($32.95, code 657247). Light and fresh impression. A note of alcohol is present but the aroma is mild and yeasty; like brioche in the oven. In the mouth, mildness continues, with notes of wheat bread toast, orange peel, a sweet edge.
LOCKE’S BLENDED IRISH WHISKEY ($34.95, code 657254). More pronounced, bolder character. Lemon peel in the smell. Medium bodied with an oily edge in the mouth, showing a sweet core like honey on toast, with a smoky finish.
The TYRCONNELL SINGLE MALT ($46.95, code 402396). Again a pronounced sweet edge to the smell. Almonds and wildflowers emerge, as does a pleasant whiff of pine needles. In taste, it’s smooth, elegant, perhaps the roundest of the bunch, with green apple and vanilla nuances.
LOCKE’S 8-YEAR-OLD SINGLE MALT ($64.95, code 913475). Remarkably fruity impression, like pears and pineapple macerated in liqueur. Very smooth and mild taste, with more fruit, vanilla, brioche and a touch of hazelnut.
CONNEMARA PEATED SINGLE MALT ($64.95, code 475921). Irish whiskey in the centuries-old tradition, with the grain exposed to peat smoke before distillation. Milder than Scotch, but the smoky peat effect is stronger. There’s a spicy, unctuous, sweet core to the whiskey, with a butter and butterscotch finish.
CONNEMARA CASK STRENGTH SINGLE MALT ($84.95, code 913400). The stylistic line carries over. The whiskey is bottled as it comes out of the cask, without being cut for uniformity, so the strength varies from 55 to 60 per cent alcohol. This one was 57.9. Deceptive because the density and core sweetness mask the strength. Fresh oak, spice, and vanilla dominate the smell. In the mouth it’s complex, showing pistachio, mocha and orange juice. A fabulous whiskey experience.
CONNEMARA 12-YEAR-OLD SINGLE MALT ($124.95, code 695445). You will have to order this because there isn’t a lot of it. It’s sweet and smoky; even smoked salmon pops to mind. The taste is smooth and of hazelnut, apricot, butter and vanilla.
A final note: The first two blended whiskies can be drunk with mix, although it does adversely affect their unique characters. The single malts — made from barley in one-batch distillation only — should be enjoyed neat or with a scant splash of neutral water.