HOME REPAIR in DIY
Clearing the air
Q: I have very little open attic space over the raised ceiling on the top floor of my house. I want to add more insulation above that ceiling, but I have been told I have to make sure I allow for sufficient air flow above the insulation and below the roof above it.
Adding to the existing insulation will cut down on the air space under the roof. How should I insure an adequate amount of air flow and ventilation under the roof sheathing?
A: To insure proper air flow under a roof of this kind (and above the insulation on the floor below it), air chutes should be installed up against the roof. Chutes will provide an unobstructed clear path for air coming up through the eaves and flowing out vent openings at or near the top of the roof. Vent openings are usually in the form of grilles or ventilators installed at or near the peak of the roof — or by cutting through the roof itself. The air chutes are installed by either nailing or stapling them up against the underside of the roof sheathing.
Q: After we use the garbage disposer in our kitchen sink we hear a steady drip or splashing noise for several minutes, apparently until the water has completely drained away. We thought the sink might be partially clogged so we used a chemical drain cleaner several times, but this did not help. Do you have any idea what is causing the noise?
A: This sound is probably water dripping off something inside the metal bottom of the disposer, or into the waste trap in the drainpipe under it. As long as the drain is not clogged, this dripping is nothing to worry about. It could be that something in the drain line or disposer was not mounted level or not properly aligned. If the noise bothers you, call in a plumber to check the installation.
Q: I have to replace the putty around several of my window panes. The old putty is dried out and cracked and is missing in several places. To avoid the messy look that I’ve seen on windows in other homes when do-it-yourselfers have done this work, can you give me pointers on how to do it properly?
A: After scraping out all the old compound, coat the exposed framing with exterior primer. If any of the metal triangles (glazier’s points) are missing, replace them. There should be two on each side of each pane. Roll the putty or compound into a long bead about the size of a pencil, then press this firmly into place in the sash rabbet with your fingers to insure good contact with the frame. Do the final smoothing with a putty knife, dragging it along the compound while holding it at an angle to peel off all excess compound.
Q: We have a very large bathroom with a built-in hot tub. This room and its hot tub were built some years ago and the builder assured me that the walls were covered with a moisture-resistant wallboard that would withstand the high humidity encountered in a room like this. However, the wallboard is now deteriorating. Is there a wallboard that will stand up to this humidity problem?
A: Assuming there is no water leaking in from the outside, it is likely that the wallboard used was not the right kind for a room with this kind of extreme humidity. There are special wallboards available that have a cement base and fibreglass mesh facing that will resist a humid environment better than ordinary gypsum board. It may be necessary to redo the walls with one of these new materials. You may also need additional ventilation in that room.
Send questions to Bernard Gladstone, c/o The New York Times Syndicate, 609 Greenwich St., 6th Floor, New York, N.Y. 10014-3610