DRINK WINE in Food & Entertaining
Dark secrets
The green revolution that is spring puts an end to the brown of winter. That means darker, earth-coloured liquors tend to go into hibernation as well. The LCBO soon will focus on the white spirits of summer — gins and vodkas — in their promotions and shelf placements.
Yes, there is a seasonality in booze. People tend to think white liquor is somehow lighter or more suited to warm weather, even though it’s nonsense when you think about it. A shot of vodka at 40 per cent alcohol has an identical effect on your body as a single malt whisky at 40 per cent.
But I digress. Let’s take a last look at a few spirits on the shelves before the change to summer mode. As you probably know by now, the powers that sit loftily on high at the province’s liquor monopoly are trying to stream customers to specific destination stores in each area, so distribution of many products is restricted. You can ask at any LCBO, though, and with the code number, they can locate the nearest outlet with stock or even bring the stuff in for you.
Duncan Taylor Regional Collection Tasting Pack ($49.25, code 604553). You will have to ask for this one, definitely, because there isn’t a huge amount around. I love opportunities to compare products side by side, so this grouping of three 200-mL bottles is ideal. We’re talking Scotch whisky, in this case a 10-year-old from each of the Speyside, Highland and Islay regions.
Duncan Taylor is an independent bottler of whiskies, which means the company acts as a broker and merchant within the industry. It buys up and holds stocks of various whiskies, which it can then age for as long as it likes.
This is the trend with ultra rare and extremely old (and expensive) whiskies that have been held for that purpose by an independent. This is how you can find a new bottling from a distillery that has been in mothballs for years.
With this pack, you get a snapshot of the best and most dominant characteristics of the given region. There are even tasting instructions to help out.
Those regional styles leap out full force. The Regional Speyside has the floral/honeyed/elegant/vaguely nutty feel found in so many of the great whiskies from that corner of Scotland.
The Regional Islay explodes with the assertively peaty, smoky, briny, iodine smells and flavours typical of the seaswept island.
The Regional Highland does nicely trying to mediate the widely disparate and sometimes conflicting styles of the huge designation. You get glimpses of the softer and rather sweeter whiskies of the south along with the brisk, bold, louder character statements of the northern and outlying island whiskies.
Highwood Distillers Centennial Limited Edition Rye Whisky ($23.95, code 387209). This impressive 10-year-old Alberta whisky should achieve much wider distribution later this year. They’ve gone for a richer style in flavour, and there is a distinct baking brioche/sweet rolls feel in smell and taste, but none of the sourdough bite in the finish of many Canadian rye whiskies; it’s smooth and polished, with a feathery, dry finish.
Demerara Distillers El Dorado Rum ($22.85, code 894014). A light-coloured but fruit-forward amber rum from what is now the only distillery in Guyana. It’s aged in barrel for five years, but keep in mind that the tropical conditions near the equator dictate that the changes in the spirit are much more rapid than they would be in a cooler climate. The result is a rum with a lot of body and a touch of sweetness, showing tropical fruit qualities, coconut, vanilla and a vague tang of dry molasses in the finish.
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