A reader wants to know what capers are. She's heard
they are fish of some kind.
No, there is nothing animal about capers. They are the
unopened flower buds of the capparis spinosa, a shrub that
grows in an arc around the Mediterranean from Spain to
France to Italy.
The buds are harvested and pickled, which creates the capric
acid that gives capers their characteristic vague (but inviting) bitterness.
Capers come in a range of sizes, the largest being
the size of a grape. But the tiny ones, called
"non pareilles," are the most highly prized.
Capers are an excellent addition to salads, in tartar sauce
and as a garnish for smoked salmon.